Pre-Installation.
Before installing any Wood Flooring follow the following Check
List:
1) The Site is in a livable condition.
2) The Room area is Dry.
3) Any heating is installed and operational, windows and doors are fitted.
4) All sub floors must be CLEAN, LEVEL/FLAT, STRUCTURALLY SOUND, AND
DRY.
Moisture Checks.
Wood Flooring can be adversely affected by moisture, so before
installation it is necessary to check that the sub floor is constructed
to prevent moisture reaching the wood floor covering from the ground,
and that a sufficient amount of water used in the building construction
is eliminated. This includes taking measures to prevent moisture rising,
for example; the installation of a vapour barrier if the product is to
be installed on treated or fresh sawn joists or battens.
Concrete Floors.
Wood flooring is usually fixed to the concrete base slab or to
a screed laid above it. The sub floor should be constructed in accordance
with the recommendations of BS8204-1 (Screeds, bases and in-situ flooring).
Inspect the floor surface for strength and load bearing capability – this
may involve looking underneath any existing floor coverings. Concrete
must be smooth and dry.
A relative humidity reading of the sub floor should be taken using a
hygrometer and flooring should not be laid until readings have obtained
a relative humidity of 75% or less.
Timber Bases.
Timber bases should be sound, rigid, and level and have a moisture
content not exceeding 14%; however 12% moisture content is more suited
for planks wider than 100mm (4”). The timber should be at equilibrium
moisture content, i.e.: the state of dryness it will attain in normal
service conditions at the time it is covered. This is especially relevant
where treated timber joists or battens are used, in this case a moisture
barrier must be installed on top of the treated timber and directly beneath
the flooring.
Specialist Bases.
Specialist bases designed to improve the thermal and/or acoustic
properties of the sub floor need particular care when installing timber
flooring, as excessive vertical movement will adversely affect the performance
of the finished floor. Some existing bases such as clay tiles, concrete
tiles or terrazzo are unaffected by dampness, but may be sufficiently
permeable to allow moisture to pass back through to the back of the floor
covering. These bases should be sound and damp-proofed where necessary.
Under Floor Heating.
Seek advice before installing any wood based flooring product.
We have a range of flooring that has been tested for use with under floor
heating; manufacturers’ guidelines must be followed. Please ask
us and we can advise the best product to suit the situation.
Remedial Action.
A concrete sub floor must be flat to 3mm in 3metres or to the
manufacturer’s recommendations for the flooring you are laying.
If the floor is uneven, use latex based self leveling compound. Small
cracks in concrete nail holes or hammer dents in wood and small gaps
between underlayment sheets should not be a problem. If you are in any
doubt, please call us and we will advise you the best way to deal with
the situation.
Acclimatisation.
The moisture content of wood depends on its environment, and the
moisture it will attain depends on the humidity of the atmosphere and
to a lesser extent upon the temperature. Therefore, the importance of
using wood at its correct moisture content cannot be over emphasized.
If at the time of fixing, the moisture content is too low, swelling may
occur.
We would advise that the wood should be acclimatized in the room for a period of 2 weeks where possible. Please refer to the in pack instructions for more information or please call us and we will advise.
Inspection.
Once your flooring has been delivered, please check that the product
description is correct to that which you have ordered, and that the quantity,
grade, and any damage are noted by our driver. Do a final check of the
sub floor and make sure it has been scraped or sanded, is broom clean
and smooth.
Installation.
There are a number of different installation techniques for wood flooring;
all of these techniques are specific to the different types of sub
floor. If you want advice on the best products and practices for the
installation of a wooden floor to suit your particular circumstance,
please give the sales office a call.
TECHNICAL INFORMATION.
Solid Hardwood Flooring.
About Our Timber Flooring.
All Raw Materials are graded and air dried at source.
All our timbers have been kiln dried to have a moisture content of between
7-10%.
Our timber flooring has been machined to T&G, and in most cases,
ends matched, which allows for easier installation and minimum wastage.
Site Conditions:
Site conditions are extremely important and can make all the difference
to a solid timber floor. The overall fabric (walls, floors, timber
etc) of the building should be thoroughly dried out so that there are
no visible signs of moisture or condensation. All wet work (concrete,
plastering, etc) must be completed and dry before you think of having
the floor delivered. Dehumidifying a newly built/extended environment
is crucial. This can either be achieved by running the heating system
for a prolonged period of time, with good ventilation or alternatively
a dehumidifier can be used.
All under floor concrete slabs should be dried to 2% moisture content
and this may take at least 1 month per 25mm (1”) of slab. Concrete
sub floors must be clean, dry and flat. (Use a self leveling compound
to correct any errors, again ensuring that it is completely dry).
Existing flooring, plywood, flooring grade chipboard or MDF sub floors
should be in good structural condition, level and free from rot and fungus.
New timber joists, battens and supporting timber should be kiln dried
to 15% and under.
Ambient conditions should be within the ranges of Temperature of 15oC
to 27oC and a relative humidity of 35%-65%
Timber should be acclimatized in the room where it is to be laid at the
conditions expected (BUT only if the conditions are right) for at least
1 week.
Expansion gaps of 15mm should be left around the perimeter of the floor.
For spans over 6m in width, 2mm washer gaps must be left at 1m intervals
across the floor.
Laying Instructions:
For boards up to and including 160mm width:
Installation over existing floor boards/joists:
We would suggest that any board up to and including 160mm wide
could be fixed using the secret nailing (if the timber is flooring over
existing timber flooring please check cables, water pipes, etc before
starting any work). Using a secret nailer and 50mm (2”) serrated
T section nails fix the boards at a 45 degree angle through the base
of the tongue at 300mm centres or less. This method can be used over
Existing Floor boards, Battens, flooring grade chipboard, MDF or Ply.
If the floor is to be fitted over joists, then the floor should be laid
at 45 or 90 degrees to the joists and nailed where possible, but at no
more than 300mm centres. Please note that a professional flooring nailer
must be used as a DIY nail gun is not suitable as the nails will not
provide a good fix. Timber flooring should not be fitted over a poorly
ventilated cavity: the timber will absorb moisture and expand. In these
circumstances it is best to board over the joists with moisture resistant
PLY with a separate vapour barrier.
Installation over Concrete:
Battens should be used ideally, and where possible they should be fixed
by adhesive or screwing into the concrete. Battens should be 20mm and
set at 300mm centres. You can if you wish insulate between the battens.
Fix the flooring using the method above.
It is important that dry un-treated battens are used and that a vapour barrier is put onto the battens and overlapped on the top of all the battens.
For Boards wider than 160mm:
Wider boards are dimensionally less stable. Just using the secret nailing
method is not enough for these wider boards. These need to be face
fixed, either by filled/plugged and screwed, or screwed and filled
using decorative nails.
There is another way of fixing a wide board, but care and expertise
must be used. Great progress has been made in gluing and secret nailing
wider boards. We do not recommend this method of fixing, but if you do
choose to fit your floor this way we recommend that you follow the following
guidelines;
1) Sub-floor must be dry – under 2%
2) Make sure air humidity is less than 65%
3) Install a PLY or flooring grade chipboard sub floor is used.
4) Use the correct size notched trowel when applying the adhesive.
5) Secret nail at 350mm centres.
6) Leave 15mm expansion gaps.
7) Poor site conditions will adversely affect the performance of all
wood floors and wide boards especially are prone to movement when there
is excess moisture in the air or sub floor.
Finishing.
Unfinished boards generally need light sanding with a finishing orbital
sander and 120-150 grit paper. Vacuum to remove all dust and then using
a finish of your choice, seal the floor. We stock all sealants and
they are as follows:
Osmo Polyx Wax Oil.
A base of natural sustainable material raw materials such as linseed,
sunflower and jotoba oils, bees, carnuba and candellia waxes. This
product must be applied thinly and will take about 8 hours to dry and
take 24 hours to cure completely. There may be some need to give a
light sand in between coats of oil as the oil has a tendency to pick
up any loose grain giving the boards a slightly rough texture between
coats.
Coverage = 2.5Ltrs 30m2 for 2 coats
0.75ltrs 9m2 for 2 coats.
Bona Traffic.
A 2 pack waterborne 100% polyurethane floor lacquer, ideal for commercial
and domestic areas subject to extremely high levels of use or where
a very matt finish is required.
Coverage = approx 45-50m2 per 4.5ltr + 0.5ltr pack. Apply with a Bona Kemi roller or other suitable applicator which must be dry when used. Shake bottle well before using.
Bona Mega.
Single pack waterbourne 100% polyurethane oxygen cross linking wood floor
lacquer, ideal for commercial and domestic areas subject to heavy wear.
Coverage approx 45-50m2 per 5ltr can.
Maintenance.
Always have a dust attracting matt at the entrance to sites; this will
prevent any sharp stones or dirt scratching the floor.
In Domestic situations a California Mop is an easy “must have”; it will keep the floor clean and dust free. Always vacuum, sweep or dry mop the floor before you clean with a maintenance product.
Use felt pads on the feet of furniture to protect the floor from excessive scratching. We do have a comprehensive list of maintenance products in stock and we will give you the best advice, help and products you will need to keep your floors looking good.
In Commercial situations a full maintenance schedule is available; in many situations the manufacturer of product sealing the timber will talk to and train the cleaning staff. Felt pads or other forms of protection need to be used on the feet or base of furniture to protect from excessive scratching of the floor. Heavy scratching will break the seal of the lacquer causing damage to the timber by the ingress of dirt and moisture of cleaning.
If you maintain the floor, the original seal should remain intact and so should alleviate the need for re-sanding and sealing. This can be achieved through using polishes on lacquered floors and regular oiling/cleaning of oiled floors.